Guides
Itchy or flaky scalp: what oils can and can't do
Itching, flakes, a tight feeling: an uncomfortable scalp can have several causes. Here is what an oil can do, what it cannot, and when to see a doctor.
3 min read ·
An itchy, flaky or tight scalp does not always have the same cause. Before reaching for an oil, here is how to tell the difference, and what an oil can really do.
Four different situations
It feels tight, with no flakes
On very curly or coily hair, sebum spreads poorly, so the scalp tends to be less hydrated (review). This is the only situation where a gentle oil ritual has a place (see below).
It gets oily quickly
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says that with an oily scalp, you may need to shampoo as often as daily (AAD tips). No oil on the scalp: keep it for your ends.
It flakes and itches: dandruff
There are many possible causes, including skin conditions, according to the AAD. Dandruff is linked to yeasts, Malassezia, which turn sebum fats into irritating fatty acids, including oleic acid, according to a study by an industry team (PubMed abstract).
It reacts to everything
For sensitive skin, the AAD advises fragrance-free products and a patch test before any new product.
Dandruff: why an oil is not the answer
- No LAMA oil is an anti-dandruff product.
- The AAD recommends anti-dandruff shampoos, with active ingredients such as zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide or ketoconazole. For curly or coily hair: about once a week, on the scalp (AAD curly hair tips).
- Adding oil may not help. Given the role of oleic acid in dandruff, applying an oil rich in it to a flaking scalp is far from an obvious choice. This is a hypothesis that has not been tested directly.
- Scalp oiling divides dermatologists, as shown by an online survey of 1,200 people in India, which cannot settle the question (PubMed abstract).
A dry scalp that feels tight: a gentle ritual
Only if you have no flakes, no redness and no itching. It is a moment of comfort, with no promise of results (common practice).
Step by step
Gentle pre-wash scalp massage
- How often
- Before washing, as feels comfortable
You will need
- A few drops of jojoba or argan oil
- Or a little shea butter, melted between your fingers
Steps
- Do a patch test in the crook of your elbow first.
- On dry hair, apply the oil to the scalp, section by section.
- Massage for a few minutes with your fingertips, not your nails.
- Shampoo your scalp, then condition your lengths.
Richer shea butter should be used in very small amounts. If your scalp gets oily quickly, massage without oil.
What to expect from a massage
It is a moment of care and relaxation; the oil mainly helps your fingers glide. The only study that measured the effect of scalp massage (9 men, with a device, no oil) found no difference from the unmassaged area (full text). So do not expect any effect on hair growth or thickness.
If it already itches: what to avoid
- Scented products, including our aromatic oils (rosemary, lavender, tea tree, eucalyptus, peppermint…): wait until your scalp has calmed down, and do a patch test first.
- Several new products at once: you would not know which one is to blame.
- Scratching or rubbing with your nails.
When to see a doctor
If itching or flakes persist despite an anti-dandruff shampoo, or if you notice redness or hair loss, see a doctor or dermatologist. Several skin conditions can be the cause, and an oil is no substitute for medical advice.
For curly hair, see also our routine for the Mauritian climate.
